|Removing Fuel Tank
1. Place the bike on a stand or lift.
2. Remove the three allen bolts holding the instrument panel to the
3. While leaving the two wire harnesses connected, hang the instrument
panel over the handlebars
making sure to use a towel to protect from scratching.
4. Turn the fuel valve off. Disconnect the fuel hose aft of
the valve while holding a rag in one had to
prevent residual fuel from dripping on the bike.
5. At the rear of the tank, disconnect the small green electrical
6. Disconnect the air breather tube at the front of the tank.
7. Remove the long through bolt at the rear of the tank and set aside.
8. Using both hands slowly pull tank towards the rear of the bike
to dislodging from the
rubber forward mounts.
9. Set tank out of the way.
Removing the Timing Left side Cover
1. Using a phillips screw driver, remove the two screws holding
the kick stand kill switch and let hang.
2. Using an allen driver, remove the six bolts holding the gray (mine
is chrome now <G>) cover.
(note that two of the bolts are two different
lengths. Make sure you remember where
they came from.)
3. Remove the two black plastic plugs with a large slotted screwdriver.
Be careful not to lose
the "O" rings. Set aside. You will come
back to this area of the bike when you're ready to
adjust the valves for clearance to close up.
Removing the Valve Covers, Valve Cover Extensions,
and Loosening the Rocker Arm Bases on Both Cylinders
1. Disconnect the two black rubber hoses going to the rear valve
(#1 cylinder by the way). Stow out of the
2. Disconnect the four spark plug wires and stow them out of the
3. Loosen, (do not remove) one spark plug in each cylinder.
(Very lose, but not out. This will allow you to
turn the engine over when the time comes.)
4. Remove all 12 hex bolt holding the chrome valve cover on.
Don't worry about that there are several different
lengths. In Tidy’s maintenance hints,
they have a color picture telling you exactly
where they go back.
5. Now carefully slide out the chrome covers from both the front
(#2) and the rear (#1cylinder)
You must lift up a little to get them out.
6. There are two chrome pins (keying devices if you will) that either
are stuck to the covers
you've taken off, or they are still in the next
chrome piece (valve cover spacer).
Find them, remove them and set aside. (This
is why you left the spark plugs just lose and
not out. Can you imagine if you dropped
them in the cylinder holes!)
7. Next, remove the metal like cover gasket from each cylinder making
sure not to bend,
staple or mutilate. These will be reused.
8. Next, remove the 6 bolts holding the valve cover spacer on.
Again, under them are two
more of these chrome key way pins and gaskets.
Do as you did in the previous steps.
Keep the bolts, pins, and gaskets segregated for
piece of mine.
9. Now comes the fun! Loosen the bolts holding the rocker arm
bases for both cylinders.
It is not necessary to take the bolts out.
Just leave them loose in the holes.
10. Locate the two push rods for each cylinder exposed at the r/h
end of the valve assy and
lay a rag between the rods.
This way you will know which valve arm assembly they return to
when it's put back together.
(All of this will save you the time of taking the entire
push rod assembly apart, the sleeves,
and the lifters.)
11. Now, very slowly lift up on the push rod end of the rocker arm
base until the push rods
come out from under the rocker arms.
This will free up the lifters down below for replacing
the cams without taking the push rod
covers, push rods, and lifters out. (Worked for me!)
Removing Cam Cover and Cams and Installing Replacements!
1. Remove the two hex bolts holding the decompression cover
on. (Have chromed if you like.)
2. Remove the decompression solenoid and let hang.
3. Remove the hex head bolts holding the cam sprocket cover
on. Place aside.
(Will require a new gasket upon re-assembly)
4. Inside you will see the smaller Drive Gear, which is on
the crankshaft), the larger
Driven Gear, (which is on the rear cylinder
cam), a round disc plate with two allen screws,
(which hold the front cam in place), and
two rod like devices sticking out the end of the two
cams. Remove the rods and place aside.
They are different lengths, so just remember
the long one goes in the rear cylinder cam,
and the short one in the front cylinder cam.
(I’ll remind you later too)
5. Look for the indent marks (small dimple) on both gears.
If they are not pointing at each
other (aligned opposite each other) you
will have to turn the engine until they are.
THIS IS CRITICAL TO PUTTING THE BIKE BACK
6. Place a small rag down at the bottom of the cam cover opening
where you see the holes that
lead back to the crankcase.
7. Now that the Drive Gear and the Driven Gear are exposed
“we” will be removing both.
The Drive Gear (smaller one) is held on
the crank with a hex bolt. In order to remove it,
place a copper washer, or some other soft
material wedged in the gears between this gear
and the Driven Gear so it will not turn
as you loosen it. Place the material in between the
teeth on the right hand side as the gear
will want to turn counter clockwise to be removed.
After you remove this bolt and washer set
aside. DON'T REMOVE THE GEAR YET!
8. Next, do the same with the nut that holds the Driven Gear
on the rear camshaft.
This time place the copper washer in the
gears on the left side. Loosen the nut and
remove along with the washer and set aside.
(MAKE SURE THE COPPER WASHERS
OR THE SOFT MATERIAL YOU USED HAS BEEN REMOVED.)
9. Slide both the Drive Gear and the Driven gear off their
(A slight nudging with a screw driver from
behind works fine) They both have straight
keys that will come off at the same time.
Make very sure not to lose them or allow to
them to get down under your rag that's blocking
the oil holes to the crank case.
Set gears aside with straight keys.
10. Loosen the two hex bolts that are in the round plate at the end
of the front cylinder cam
(camshaft end cover bolts) Remove
the bolts and the plate and set aside.
(Make sure when we get to reinstalling
this plate you use blue loctite.)
11. Last item to remove before we remove the camshaft cover is the
oil deliver tube.
At the 11 o'clock position from where
you removed the round front cam cover is one
more hex bolt that holds the oil deliver
tube. Remove it and slide out the oil deliver tube.
Note that there is an O ring at the
far end. Make sure when you reinstall it's in place.
12. Loosen and remove the last six (6) hex bolts holding the camshaft
cover in place.
Set the hardware aside.
13. While holding in on the two camshaft exposed ends (your trying
to keep them from
coming out with the cam cover), carefully
pull out (resistance of the cam cover gasket)
on the cam cover. It will break
lose. You are trying to make sure the cams stay in under
the lifters so the lifters don't fall
down out of the push rod assemblies.
(The book has you do this completely
different, but my way is a whole lot shorter and
as far as I can tell had no ill effect.)
New Cam Installation
1. Take the new cams and lube them up with cam grease (molybdenum).
I bought two very small tubes of this stuff
at the local automotive store.
(One tube is ten times too much <G>)
Lube not only the lobes, but the cam journals.
2. Rear cam replacement first: While holding the old
cam in place, slide a screw driver
under the two lifters that ride on this
cam and hold them back up inside the push rod
assembly (you only need to make enough room
to slide out this cam and reinsert the new one.)
Slowly pull out the old cam and slide in
the new one. Gently push it into the journal house
at the far end. Let the two lifters
come back down and ride on the new cam.
Check and you will see that they are sitting
on the lobes.
3. Repeat step 2 for the front cam replacement.
4. Take the cam lube and apply the grease to the holes in the
Don't get carried away and plug up the slots
and hole where oil is suppose to flow to
the journals. Just light lube here
5. Take the new gasket for the camshaft cover and spray with
gasket seal on both sides.
This not only insures no leaks, but helps
hold the gasket in place when you reassemble.
(By the way, there are key way pins just
like the ones on the valve covers so the covers
go on nice a straight.)
6. Place the new gasket on the engine block. Make sure
holes all line up.
7. Carefully take the cam cover and install over the two cam
shaft journals and push the
cover up securely to the gasket. Re
install the 5 hex head bolts. Re-torque to proper value.
( 5.1 ft. lbs.)
8. Using some light grease re-lube the O ring on the oil deliver
tube and reinsert into the
cam cover. Install the bolt that held
it in place. Torque to 5.1 ft. lbs.
9. Install the front cam round cover by installing the two
hex bolts. Use some blue loctite to
secure these screws and torque to 7.2 ft.
10. Install the Cam Drive gear over the crank end. Place the
straight key in the slot and
align the key way. Replace the
washer and bolt. (we'll retorque shortly.)
11. The tricky part. You will see that the Driven Gear has
two gears that are not quite aligned.
Using an awl, or a round bladed screw
driver in one of the holes in the gear assembly,
align the gears so they will both
be on the same cog as you install the Driven Gear on
the shaft of the rear camshaft and
meshing with the Drive Gear. (The book in chapter 5
explains this well.)
12. Install the straight key and install the washer and hex nut.
13. Reversing the procedure that allowed you to break the nut and
bolt lose when removing,
use the copper washer or soft material
and retorque them. The nut is torqued to 37 ft. lbs.
And the bolt is torqued to 22 ft.
14. Re install the two decompression pins. The short one goes
in the front camshaft end
(through the round end plate), and
the long one in the rear camshaft end.
15. Carefully remove the rag you had covering the holes in the bottom.
Make sure no foreign (or domestic)
material drops out when the rag is removed.
Reverse procedures to re-apply rest of engine
Refer to valve adjustment
procedure and bolt replacement for valve
covers, "click here"