|Some symptons of a too high level
1. The choke does not work properly.
2. You'll see liquid spitting in the end of the exhaust after initial
The carbon deposit will not be uniform and you'll
see streaks or liquid stains.
3.Your exhaust pipes are eternally black no matter what you set your
Use a good set of needle nose vise grips to break the tightness
of the screws that hold the
float bowl to the carburetor body.
Others have used a Dremel grinding tool with a cut-off
wheel and cut a slot for a sloted
screwdriver, or even cut the head off if worse comes
Replace with Allen head screws.
Can this drain pipe be adjusted to point down
or towards the outside of the bike?
The drain pipe is fixed, so don't try to move
How does the tube attach to the bottom
of the carb?
To the drain pipe mentioned on the bottom
of the float bowl.
It appears that the 1/8 inch will work but it is REAL TIGHT.
pipe (nipple) on the bottom of the carb points inwards towards the
the tube must attach, make a 90 degree downward turn the
another 90 degree turn towards the outside of the carb, then another
degree turn upwards alongside the carb.
There is an allen head screw on the bottom of the float bowl
facing the rear.
You open it to drain the bowl. Then leave it open and put your clear
tube on it.
Try to keep it level underneath and run it up along side the side of
towards the front. The measurement must be taken at the front of the
because the bowl slants down in the rear. With tube in place and fuel
cock open, turn on the key. The pump will activate and fill the tube
and stop when the floats cut it off. The level in the tube will indicate
the level in
the bowl if you have done it correctly. There should be no bubbles in
If you move the tube slighly up or down the level should correct itself
return to the same level. The manual recommends 1 to 2mm below the
set the level according to the book, If you are 1 to 2mm above, leave
On the float level....there are two mating surfaces,
a "front (air cleaner side),
and a back (intake side)...the back
is 11MMs higher than the front. I had set my
level using the front mating surface
as a reference...since then I have had a
problem of "running out of gas" if
I do a full throttle run through the gears, at
about 85 in fourth the bike would
"stutter", back of on the throttle for a few
secs and away you could go. Thanks
to Wanderndude for pointing out that
if you look in the manual, I
forget the page, it does appear to
be the back mating surface they are
referencing but no where in print
(unless I skipped over it) does it make this