Floorboard Extensions
For the Road Star

      The addition of floorboard estenstions has been a pretty common mod that quite
a few people have done over the last several years.   It's a matter of time, tools, price
and preference of how you go about adding this nice modification. 
      I've included 2 different patterns offered by forum members, both are functionally
working pattern that are easily made with few tools.
      About the subject of JPEG Images, even though you draw out a perfect to scale
drawing, scan it, and save it as a  jpg file extension, it does not mean that when you
open it in your own graphics program XYZ , means that when you print it out, that,
it will be a exact scale image due to differences in the way different programs handle the
same file. 
      Due to this I'm adding dimensions to the drawings and also offering the files as JPG's.

      Another option to making your own brackets are to purchase them from 4KRZN's
Motorcycle Enhancements. They are made of Stainless Steel and polished to a great
finish. I was recently offered a good deal by John for a set of these but due to not
wanting to spend money to customize my bike any further, I declined the offer, 
(thanks John), but if you would rather purchase, then buy them.  John's site link
is on my web page, look for "Motorcycle Enhancements".

Before you look, notice that Dave's design moves the boards forward
3 1/4" and upward at a 15 degree tilt.

Hezbak's design moves the boards forward 3" and the boards upward
at a 15 degree tilt.

So it is safe to say a longer legged person would prefer the Zoomer
design where as a shorter legged person might prefer the Hezbak.

You have the freedom to edit either design to a format that will suit 
your own comfort but wanted to express this thought to you before you decided which one to attempt to produce.
 
Zoomer's Plan
Dave McDougall
  
(Note: floorboards mount in the two left most holes of the drawing,
the two right most holes mount on the frame of the bike.)

    These floorboard extensions are simple to make as long as you have a drill 
and something to cut the steel with. All you need is 2 pcs. of steel flat bar
that is 3/8" thick, 1-1/2" wide and 6" long. I used a mini grinder with a 
cutoff wheel but I guess you could use a hacksaw and a file. You could
also just leave the piece with square edges, it probably wouldn't make 
much difference. Prime them up and paint them black and they will look great.

    When installing the extensions, you can reuse the bolts that hold on the floorboards. If you change them, you need 10mm bolts about 1" to 1-1/2" long and a 1.25 thread pitch. For remounting the boards to the extensions 
you can use 1/2" bolts. Make sure you use Locktite so they don't rattle loose.

     On the brake side of the bike you will have to remove the brake line from the clips along the frame so you will have enough slack to move the board forward. I just tie wrapped it back to the frame in a couple of places. 

    Adjustments to the pedal height can be done with the rod adjustment on the pedal.

     On the shifter side of the bike you will have to remove the arm off the shifter and move it 2 splines counter-clockwise. When complete you can fine tune the length to your preference using the adjustment on the shifter rod.

     That's it, and I think that you'll enjoy the relaxed riding position. Good Luck, Dave McDougall (Zoomer)
 
Zoomer's Plan
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Hezbak's  Plan
  
(Note: floorboards mount in the two left most holes of the drawing,
the two right most holes mount on the frame of the bike.)


 
     I just moved my floorboards forward 3 inches for $24. Bought 2 pieces 
of 3/8  steel from a local distributor for $20. Size, 1 and 1/4" times 5 
and 1/2".

Drilled four 7/16" holes, filed edges and corners, and painted them with 
primer then gloss black. They work great. Had to adjust the left side shifter
assembly by turning the front arm a couple of degrees. On the right side, had
to unhook all of the brake line fasteners and re-tie with cable straps. 

The new plates bolted straight to the frame where the floorboard mounts were. Used the same bolts with blue Locktite. 

Bought new 10MM bolts, lock washers and nuts for the front
holes and also used blue Locktite. Hardware cost $4. 
Very cool, very effective and very cheap.
Thought you might want to know and/or try. 

Again, this is 3/8" steel. Local distributor cut it to size. I do not know if it would work with engine guards. I do not have photos but will create and post a drawing. 

I did drill the front holes with a slight offset to increase the angle of
the board. 

   A couple more points. I found the distributor above in the yellow pages under steel.

They actually shear (not saw) the plates to size. Very clean and precise.

They offered to drill the holes for a fee. I opted to invest in a cobalt drill bit and do them myself. I used the floorboard bracket to mark the holes. 

Again, the 7/16" hole worked well for 10MM bolts. On one of the four sets of holes I had to file ever so slightly with a round file to fit. All in all, it was quite easy. 

If you need bolts the stock ones (plate to frame) are 10mm x 30mm.
The new ones (floorboard to plate) are 10mm x 40 mm with lock washer and nut. 
I would definitely use locktite once everything is ready to button up. 

The plates (and hardware) can be primed and painted or even chromed.

They are extremely heavy duty and do not flex. Good Luck. 

HEZBAK
 
Hezbak's Plan

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