Convert your Turn Signals to Run\Turn Signals
an Alternative Method
By, Loren Cole


  I first picked up some red lenses from a motorcycle salvage shop nearby. Perfect fit. Must have come off an old Yamaha (?). (an alternative to this is using a Custom Chrome Lens or picking up some Red Translucent Testors Model Paint at the hobby shop or some Wal Marts)
Also from  YAMAHOGG1    Go to

Search for part/item # YAM002 Yamaha Turn Signal lens "Fits MANY early XS/TX models '400cc to 1100cc '77-'83 RED VERSION"

$3.95's a bargain and a perfect fit. 

  Then went to Radio Shack for a pair of 12 volt, 2 amp single throw, double pole miniature relays. Well, the only ones they had looked like they would go onto a printed circuit board. Certainly not automotive quality/durability. So went next door to Schucks Automotive. No relays of that sort either.

   Then on a whim, I checked the trailer lighting section. Sure enough! After studying the wiring diagram I decided that a 3 wire to 2 wire tail light converter would work. It's made by Reese - p/n#74209. The converter itself is about 3x4 inches square and about 1/2 inch thick. 

  The three wires on the Roadstar we'll be dealing with are
brown - left turn signal, 
green - right turn signal, 
blue - running lamp (tail light).

On the left side of the converter, labelled "To Car" are five wires,
right turn, 
left turn, 

On the right side, labeled "To Trailer" are four wires ,
right turn/stop, 
left turn/stop, tail, 

  I uncoupled the harness connector under the seat, going to the rear. Upstream of the coupler I connected the wires on the "to car" side of the converter,
right turn to green, 
left turn to brown, 
stop to blue, 
ground to the negative battery terminal.

Then I pulled the brown & green wires out of the downstream side of the rear lighting connector. 

On the "to trailer" side of the box, I connected 
right turn/stop to green,
left turn/stop to brown (the two wires disconnected from the coupler) 
ground to the other ground wire

Plugged the coupler back together. 

The unit has double-sided sticky tape on the back, so peeled off the paper and stuck it right there where the stock tool kit was. Perfect fit. Laid the Yamaha tool kit over the top & secured it with it's rubber strap and replaced the seat. 

The reason I connected "stop" to "running lamp" was because I figured that was the best way to have continuous power to the turn signals, to be used as running lights. I think to have used the "tail" wire also would have required dual filament bulbs. As it is, with the stock single filament bulbs, they're both on all the time (whenever the key is on), and when a turn signal is activated, it blinks off & on. They do blink about twice as fast as before, but no biggie. 

Works great.

I hope I didn't make this sound more difficult or confusing than it was. It was really very simple, and took me less that 30 minutes. 

Theory to as, why it works

Here's the reasoning of why I used the "stop" circuit for the running lights:

The blue wire on the bike is for the tail light, which is energized at all times, when the key is turned on. We want the running lights to be on all the time too, of course.

Since the blue (energized) tail light wire is connected to the "stop" wire (on the "to car" side of the module), it powers that circuit all the time, as if the brake was being used.

Then on the downstream side (to trailer), "right turn/STOP" and "left turn/STOP" receive that continuous power, causing both 1156 bulbs to be on all the time.

The "right turn" and "left turn" wires on the "to car" side receive power only when the turn signals are activated. These connect to the same "RIGHT TURN/stop" and "LEFT TURN/stop" on the "to trailer" side of the module. When the turn signals are activated, they interrupt power momentarily to the 1156 single filament bulbs, causing them to "blink, blink, blink".

The "tail" wires on both sides of the module are separate from the "left turn/stop and right turn/stop circuits and would not receive the pulsing signal interruption from the turn signals, and is therefore not used.

The whole ball game changes if you have installed dual filament bulbs (1157 ???). In that case, you would indeed use the "tail circuit", which would go to the second wire on each turn signal on the modified 1157 sockets. Basically, it would be wired just as the module instructions direct, rather than modifying it my way (trailers use dual filament bulbs). If you want to go this route, with 1157's, rather than having "turn signal/running lights", you will have "turn signals/running lights/brake lights". This is of course, even better, but I chose to avoid the extra step of changing out the light sockets to accomodate the dual filament bulbs.

Make sense? I hope so. Electricity theory makes my head spin. It's taken me about an hour to compose this memo in my head and get it down on paper. Anyway, trust me, it works < G > .

Loren Cole 
Snohomish WA 
'02 Midnight Star 
ISRA #9971, Norwestars Constellation