The procedure here is not meant to replace the shop manual procedure for valve adjustment.
If you feel that it might be harmful to your engine do not follow this procedure.
Several have done it this way and found it to be helpful.
Thanks for the help Dave M. and Scott B.
Place bike on a lift if available or stand to hold bike straight up if possible.
Remove 3 allen bolts holding instrument cluster, disconnect connectors
Turn fuel petcock to off position, remove fuel line (lower left hand side of tank)
Remove fuel tank vent hose upon top of tank.
Remove rider seat and unplug the green electrical connector at rear of fuel tank.
Remove long bolt and nut at rear of tank. (10mm)
Grasp tank and gently pull backwards with a slight wiggling motion,
|Remove two hoses on top of rear cylinder and fold back out of way.
Remove spark plug wires from plugs and tie back.
DO NOT REMOVE SPARK PLUGS
AT THIS TIME
|Break loose allen head bolts on top of valve covers and remove.
Using a 5mm allen wrench.
Clearance between the frame and top of valve covers is close and a ball allen
wrench is very helpful when removing screws.
If you do not have a ball allen wrench, saw off a 1/2" long piece of the proper
size allen wrench and force into a 6" long piece of 1/8" rubber or vinyl hose.
This allows you to get into a tight area and back out the screws by twisting the
|Remove the spark plug on the right hand side of cylinder.
|Lift up on covers and remove paying attention to (2) dowel pins used
cover to cylinder spacers, they will either lift out with cover or remain in spacer.
Be careful as not to damage gasket. Yes it can be re-used if you are careful with it!
To gain easier access to adjuster screws on rocker arm fingers,
|Here's a time saving tip:
The piston doesn't have to be at true TDC to adjust the valves.
Removing that left side cover is a real pain.
If you do not feel that you can safely
do the next step, remove the left-hand
Pull the two outside front and rear spark plugs
then blip the starter until you
(The 4 stroke cycle - as the engine fires and
the piston travels down both sets of
You'll notice that there is a small period when the valves don't move at all.
You can then raise the arms slightly using a wrench
on the rocker arm flats
Also, sticking a dowel down the spark plug hole
when you think it's about
Just be sure to pull it out before touching the starter again.
|Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster screw. (10 mm hex head)
back the adjuster screw (aprox 1/8" square head) out until it is loose,
then run it down with your fingers until it just touches the valve
(remember, your fingers are amazingly sensitive)
then while holding the adjuster securely with one
|Either have a magnetic block, or a fixture that you can screw down,
or clamp your indicator
in place. If you have a magnetic base, there is a good spot where the riders seat locks into
the frame to place the base for the rear cylinder. Another good spot is the frame where
your VIN sticker is for the front cylinder.
I rested the tip of the dial indicator on the rocker arm over the push rod tubes.
The further out from the axis point on the rocker arm will give a better reading.
Loosen the adjusting screw on the rocker arm and back it out
until the non adjusting side is
Then adjust the screw down by hand until you see the indicator
start to move.
Then tighten the locking nut.
If say for example, it reads 10/10,000ths,
It is fool proof, and guarantees a true "0" tolerance setting.
|The slight "ticking" which can be heard at the valve covers when the valves are properly adjusted is perfectly normal and is merely the sound of the valves closing on their seats.|
|Almost forgot, when putting your valve covers back on this diagram might be of help.|